Invention within small spaces is what jewelry is all about. Often we don’t even think of how a gemstone or diamond is set. Yet, that influences everything from its overall form to its wearability and it aesthetics. Naturally we focus on the look of the jewelry, its color, shape, size and presence. But knowing a bit about various types of settings can also give you clues about how appropriate something is especially for rings and those worn every day, such as engagement rings. Here is a quick guide to a few of the more common settings you might encounter.
Prong Set
Prong settings tend to come in two different types: four prongs or six. Considered to be the most popular and common type of engagement ring settings one has to only think of the Tiffany setting to see why. Originally dating to the late 19th century, Tiffany created and patented the iconic four prong setting. A common misconception however is that six prongs ensures that the diamond is set more securely, when in reality, that is not always the case. Six prongs tend to overwhelm the diamond so you see less diamond and more metal. Four prongs allow you to see more of that spectacular diamond you are purchasing, ease the task of cleaning and provides a wider variety of aesthetic options in the design depending on the shape of diamond you are setting.
Fishtail
Fishtail shaped prongs are often found in vintage and antique jewelry and even reproductions. Similar to that of the prong set, these are prongs prongs tend to square the shape of round brilliant cut diamonds, while giving the illusion of a larger center stone.
Invisibly Set
First developed by the imitable Van Cleef & Arpels and introduced in 1933, sometimes VCA refers to this type of setting as "Mystery set". Each stone is abutted next to the other and only tiny thin strips of metal beneath hold them in place. Square shaped stones are utilized to form the paving stones of gems. Exceptionally difficult to achieve in its precision, it is not a setting one encounters often. Laborious, few have the mastery to achieve its technical demands. Other jewelers produce this type of setting, as the example above in rubies. A wonder of ingenuity and a marvel of creativity, examples are always breathtaking.
Bezel Set
It comprises a thin metal rim with edges that fully or partially surround the stone (half bezel set). One of the oldest forms of settings, yet this can even be found on many of the popular halo rings today. Bezel set stones can be worn low to the hand.
Bezels serve as excellent protection to a stone’s girdle (perimeter) as well as rarely do they lift or need as much long term restoration. Want to improve the color of your diamond? Choosing between yellow or white metal can add enhancements to the stone’s color and overall look. Its clean classic lines can be a superb choice for an engagement ring.
Gypsy Set
Dating to its first use in the 19th century, this type of setting is often present on Victorian jewelry and rings. Its premise is to set the stone flush or just below the top surface of the metal. Recessed, the gemstone is more protected from wear. Often surrounded the well holding the stone is a design such as a star pattern. Labor intensive, metal is pressed and hammered around the stones perimeter to secure so it is not ideal for softer gems.