Archetypal to the Art Nouveau period, this superlative necklace takes its cues from the Chinese Aesthetic movement.
Two plaques of carved lapis lazuli feature a bird with its wings stretched upward, and long tail feathers. The background of a flower and foliage are all deeply carved.
A frame of spring-green opaque enamel in a diamond shape with softened points.
Beneath, another rectangular plaque exhibits swirls suggesting foliate motifs. Fine lapis lazuli was employed besprinkled with tiny gold highlights. Its bale also features green and black enamel. Note the lovely gold top bale, no ordinary circular fitting!
A miniature masterpiece, the chain is formed by links featuring whiplash curves (another hallmark of the era). Stylized fleur de lis fan out above the curves.
Certainly not a mass-produced piece, it is likely one of a kind.
The spring ring may be added, marked 14k, with the Sloan mark. However, part of the original clasp may be missing. Ulysses Dietz Grant* was gracious enough to view high-resolution images of this necklace and was convinced that it was made by Sloan & Co. and possibly by their designer, Ralph Richardson. Our thanks go out to him for his expertise.
*Notes: Ulysses Dietz Grant is the former curator of Decorative Arts at the Newark Museum (retired). A prolific writer, he co-authored the book, "The Glitter & The Gold: Fashioning America's Jewelry" along with Jenna Weissman Joselit, Kevin J. Smead, and Janet Zapata. If you don't own a copy you should!
It was the first major book to spotlight Newark New Jersey's significant contribution to fine jewelry production in America. Such names as Krementz, Sloan & Co., Riker, A.J. Hedges, and more are featured throughout with numerous photographs. A highly recommended read.
